1 de juny 2010

51 anys i un dia més tard....

La cadireta del Diable omnipresent

....tres tirilles passem de llarg la marabunta que pastura pel monestir, enfilem les escales cap Sant Benet fugint del rebombori per situar-nos als peus de l'Elefant amb la vista posada a la fissura que ratlla la banda dreta de la trompa on l'Anglada i en Guillamon van deixar-hi la seva firma un 28 de maig de 1959. La ressenya.

El traçat impecable i variat, pel que fa el rocam va millorant amb l'alçada, el segon llarg a part de ser el més fi també es el més "fluix" pel que fa la roca.
L'equipament encara és manté intacte des de la obertura, desconeixent si alguna de les peçes es va afegir a posteriori. Les reunions de 3 peçes mínim (la penúltima es pot reforçar), amb seguros que no crec que superin els llindars exigits per la UIAA.


Els pitons de l'artificial semblen estar bastant a caldo tot i així en vam veure algun que després de tant temps per allà passant fred ja tenia ganes d'anar a ritme de lambada. També hi ha un cordinet de 3mm que l'últim que et venen ganes de fer al veure'l és de riure... Olé pels que passeu en lliure per aquest llarg, molt alpin el tema!

De casa jo portaria friends fins el nº3, tascons cable per llaçar burils i/o cordinos, 3-4 recuperables i els estreps. Ah! I un martell amb un parell de claus al fons de la motxilla per si les flies.


Via molt recomanable per als que us agraden les clàssiques de tota la vida!

Romanticorusticoclimb

24 comentaris:

martí b ha dit...

Uf, m'han vingut ganes d'obrir una col·lecta per fer un reequipament, no sé si m'hi fotria, ara mateix, aquí...

Per cert, no sé quins plans tens a l'estiu, però si et dediques al tocament de pebrots a dues mans compta amb mi els dimecres i dijous, que tindré lliure.

Salut i fins aviat!

Mingo ha dit...

Felicitats, aquesta via tinc moltes ganes de fer, però quan veig els fils ferros a les R, buffffff, mira si te'ls troves quan puges és fotut però vas fent.
Salut companys

marsi ha dit...

Iep Martí, doncs a veure si em dones un 50% del que recullis... ;) Si res canvia compto amb tu per aquests dies que dius. Ja parlem! Fins aviat macabru!

Mingo, a les reunions hi ha varios seguros i alhora totes són de força a molt comòdes... fan una mica de grima però veus molts mosquetons triangulats que dona confiança! No te la deixis perdre! Salut trepa!

PGB ha dit...

Doncs què vols que et digui, tirilles... a mi això tant rovellat em fa una mica de basarda ;P

Qui eren els altres dos "tirilles"?

O_O ha dit...

te extranyaba...:_)

Leo ha dit...

Marsi! veo que te vas fanatico!!! bien!!! has visto la Aguja del Diablo, por aqui? han sido 16 horas non-stop! saludos! Leo

Dalton's ha dit...

Molt bona la lambada!

Alejo

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